This RCGroups thread has all the build notes you could ever need, though you’ll have to read a lot of pages to find all the highlights! Particularly useful is the “view all attachments” feature, which shows all of the pictures in the thread on one page. The Hyperflight store page also has a handy list of recommended control throws.

The official manual doesn’t mention how the horns should be placed relative to the hinge line of the control surfaces. I believe they should be positioned so that the hole in the horn is directly above the hinge line.

If you’re a left-handed thrower, the rudder’s horn should also be on the left side of the craft (so it’ll effectively be hidden by the rudder when you’re holding the glider by its peg ready for launch).

When gluing the V-mount and rudder to the tail, be sure to scuff up the surfaces first with some sandpaper, and then clean the carbon parts down with acetone to remove any leftover release agent (from the moulding process). This will ensure a secure glue. After carefully aligning the V-mount, I glued it to the boom by wicking thin CA into the crack between it and the boom. A small balsa spacer was added to align the last control rod sleeve with the rudder. I also glued the vertical stabiliser using thin CA.

I found that the manual’s suggested aileron pushrod placement (exiting through the top of the back of the pod) required them to be ridiculously bent, and the force required to move them was too high. Instead, I drilled slots in the back of both sides of the pod (at the level of the servo arms) which allowed the aileron horns and the servos to connect together in a straight line. This also gave me more room for my antennas to exit the back of the pod alongside the rudder and elevator pushrods. A small round file can be useful in extending the drilled hole into a slot shape.

In compression, the aileron pushrods would bow near the ailerons. To fix this, I glued balsa supports between the aileron pushrod sleeves and the boom to hold them in place. By happy coincidence, these supports ended up being at the 80mm suggested CoG location, so I can use them as a CoG reference.

This is a popular modification, so there are lot of pictures of it for reference on the RCGroups thread, like this from Brain52.

When cutting the PTFE pushrod sleeving into 10mm lengths for the elevator and rudder pushrods, I found that the ends of the sleeves were getting crushed flat by the cutting action. I squeezed them in the opposite direction with a pair of pliers to bring them back to round, but the shape was still imperfect, and the friction with the pushrod was extremely high. To fix this, I slid the sleeve segments onto a piece of piano wire, and then heated them with a hair dryer. This allowed the sleeving to relax back to its former shape, and the friction dropped away to just about nothing. You’ll know if you got this right when the sleeves can slide up and down the wire on their own (under just their own weight).

If you choose your servos carefully, you can use a 2S LiPo battery to power everything. I’m using the Ripmax SD100 servos (Dymond D47 clone), which can tolerate the 8.4V of a fully-charged 2S battery. This way, you don’t need to use a voltage regulator, and FrSky telemetry-enabled receivers can transmit the actual battery voltage down to the ground without adding additional battery voltage sensors.

If you glue a servo in the wrong place, don’t worry about it, this is why you wrapped the servo in masking tape. The servo can be cleanly pulled off the tape, leaving just a square of glued tape behind on the boom, which can be removed with acetone.

Because the ailerons need such a large throw to allow for braking, I used longer arms on the aileron servos. This also allows room for the sleeves of the rudder and elevator servos to pass by within the arms of the ailerons.

I’m using the Turnigy Nano-Tech 300mAh 2S 35-70C as a battery, which is a little too tall to slide all the way to the front of the nose, so mine is mounted about 10mm further back. Because there’s so little vertical space available above the servos, the JST battery connector is a bit too thick to fit nicely above them. It works acceptably for the moment, but I plan to replace both the main connector and balance connector on the battery with a single servo connector.

I was worried that the Blaster wouldn’t fit in my car (Nissan Primera), but it turns out that I can fit it in the boot (trunk) if I fold both back seats down. I cut a slot in the top of a small cardboard box to act as a stand to hold the tail surfaces off the floor, then used masking tape to attach the left wingtip and the nose to the carpet. This holds the glider very nicely in place while driving.

Today it was a beautiful blue sunny sky with a reasonable North-East breeze, which means that the wind would be coming directly onshore at Aramoana beach. There is a tall cliff a little back from the water’s edge, and I wanted to try slope soaring on this from its base. However, as I drove out there, the wind speed picked up until I was unsure if I’d be able to fly.

I carried my Libelle over the dunes, fighting with the wind the entire way, a little worried that it would pull the wings off. I finally took off and made a test flight over the dunes. But the wind was too strong, so although I was able to stay in the air, the Libelle’s ground track was continually moving downwind.

I copied some seagulls and moved out from the dunes and onto the beach itself. This was much better, but in the strong wind I still wasn’t getting much lift. I could hardly fly passes along the line of the beach, because I was forced to face almost directly into the wind in order to avoid being blown back into the dunes.

I gave up on flying over the dunes and headed along the beach to the base of the cliff. The strong gusty wind dropped as if I was standing in a sheltered area. I think this is because the cliff forces the air to rise upwards somewhat off-shore, leaving a nearly dead bubble of air at the base of the cliff where I was standing. The wind was even calm enough in this area for a DLG launch, so that’s what I did.

I found a nice steady upward flow of air near the cliffs, so I didn’t have to fight to keep the Libelle pointed where I wanted it. I flew passes along the cliff edge, steadily gaining altitude. I think I eventually managed to climb above the top of the cliff. I had feared that there might be a sudden wind shear at the top of the cliff that would slam me out of sight over the lip of the cliff inland, but luckily this was not the case and there was no discontinuity. A few seabirds joined me in patrolling the beach.

This is where I messed up. I had been soaring out from the cliff towards the water, quite high up so I had to look almost directly upwards to see the Libelle. Then at one point I flew right in front of the sun. This is normally no problem, I just glance away for a second, and then I’ve flown clear of the sun and it’s fine. However this time, as I glanced away, I suddenly realised that the Libelle was facing directly into the onshore wind. So the Libelle would actually be making very little progress across the ground (it was practically hovering in place) and wouldn’t clear the sun nearly as fast as I needed it to. By the time I could see it again, the strong wind could have rotated it into practically any orientation.

By the time I looked back, I couldn’t see the Libelle any more. Bewildered, I searched the whole sky, but there really didn’t seem to be any trace of it. I twitched the controls a little as if it would help me feel where the Libelle was, but to no avail (I need a force-feedback system :)). It really seemed like it had vanished. Finally, 10 or 20 seconds later I heard the unmistakable sound of the Libelle crashing into rock, so I believed that it had crashed into the cliff face, though I didn’t see any wreckage fluttering down to the ground.

I flipped a switch on my Taranis which causes it to announce the RSSI (received signal strength) every 5 seconds, and began to walk up the sand dunes towards the base of the cliff. The initial RSSI reading was about 60, so I knew that the Libelle wasn’t buried too deeply in the sand. Gratifyingly, the RSSI begin to steadily climb with every step I took upwards.

Eventually I found it. It hadn’t crashed into the cliff at all, but rather had crashed into a boulder that was 5-10 metres downslope from the cliff.

Unfortunately it was sitting in a tidy pile of rather more pieces than it took off with. The nose cone is pretty comprehensively smashed, the wings have separated, both dihedral braces have snapped, the wing plate has shattered, and one end of the wing mount has begun to pull vertically out from the foam. One of the aileron servos is completely stripped, while the rudder servo has a notch only at one extreme end of its travel, and could probably fly again. The tailplane and wing surfaces are no uglier than when they took off, and the wing root break is clean and can be easily re-repaired. I think it must have landed nose-first, saving the foam from direct impact.

The peg mounting plate on the right wing was already fractured from a previous incident. Unfortunately, my CA glue repair of this plate must have given way on takeoff (without me noticing) as the launch peg has made a break for freedom and taken the wingtip with it. I don’t know where that ended up.

Unfortunately I think the issues with the wing mount damage, nose cone and missing wingtip are going to keep this Libelle grounded for the moment. Because of the high cost of shipping to New Zealand, I’ve found that the most cost- and time-effective way of buying spare parts is just to order more than one Libelle (particularly for long pieces like the pod/boom assembly or the wing, which require a large shipping box, costing nearly as much as shipping a whole Libelle). So luckily for me I have a pristine, never flown, backup Libelle sitting assembled on the shelf for just this eventuality!

When I lost visual contact with the Libelle, I probably should have gone into a slight bank in the hopes of spiralling to the ground, although the downwind speed was really fierce and it might not have improved things. I’m considering installing a lost-model beeper in future builds, which might have helped locate it in the air as well. Anyway, next time I’m going to stay as far away from the sun as I can!

So today I drove through drizzle to the field and squelched through the mud to the edge of the hill. It’s heavy overcast and 8 degrees with only a breath of wind, so I wasn’t expecting much. I threw four or five tosses alongside, then slightly above and beyond the trees, without having any issue returning back to the field in time for landing. I got bolder and bolder, and flew further from the edge of the hill. This is the view past the cemetery towards the city, seen through a gap in the trees:

I made it out far enough that I was suddenly able to hang motionless in midair. I’m thinking the air was moving up the hill to match the slow end of the Libelle’s cruise speed. I was able to make very slow passes along the line of the slope (slower than walking speed I think), meanwhile my altitude was slowly climbing. I seemed to be in very smooth air and I didn’t need to make any big corrections, but I also didn’t have so much extra lift that I could make more than a slow cruise. I was able to get 4, 6, 8 minute flights, ranging further and further away from me out towards the city.

Some gulls circled near my altitude while I was hanging motionless next to them, pointing into the wind. At one point a bird of prey was suddenly 2 metres behind me, right on my six, and I had to zoom back over to the field to land, with it in pursuit. Once I touched down, it briefly looked like the bird was going to stoop down and strike the Libelle on the ground, but luckily it didn’t. I think it was just curious, because I’d like to hope it wasn’t considering taking down something as large as the Libelle, which was way bigger than it.

My last flight of the day was 12 minutes 30 seconds! Now I have to clean all the mud off everything, and find some warm gloves for next time.

I’ve now reglued my Libelle glider’s wings since my last crash, and while I have the covers off I thought I’d take the chance to post about the electronics I’m using.

I’m using the stock Dream-Flight servos, which I’ve been happy with. They do jitter a little bit, but I suspect this is mostly due to my transmitter/receiver. I shortened the servo cables for the elevator and rudder, and produced my own servo extension cables for the ailerons using the Pololu Crimping Tool to terminate the cable. With a little practice, this crimping tool (along with female & male crimping pins and connector housings) produces a strong, secure bond that I’d trust just as much as those on commercially produced servo cables. This allows you to avoid your control rods in the front pod binding on a tangle of cables by making the cables just the right length.

Instead of the stock 300mAh 4.8V NiMH battery, I’m using a Turnigy 1200mAh 3.7V 1S round LiPo from HobbyKing. This weighs less than the stock battery (23g vs 31g) but the capacity is much greater (4.4 watt-hours for the LiPo versus 1.4 watt-hours for the original). This gives me flight times exceeding 4 hours on a single charge, versus about one and a half hours on the stock battery. This is great because with the old NiMH I had several days of flying where the battery ran flat in mid air and I still wanted to keep flying. Now the battery outlasts me!

I took a servo extension cable, cut off one end, and soldered it onto the positive and negative battery tabs as shown, which accepted the solder readily without using special solder or techniques. I soldered the other half of the servo extension to a XT-60 plug in order to create a charging cable to plug into my Accucel charger.

The round cell is a little bit too long and tall to fit into the original foam cavity. I used a knife to remove the foam fillets from the battery bay floor at either end to accommodate the length, and dug down a few millimetres to accommodate the extra height. The pod lid now closes perfectly!

My receiver is a FrSky D4R-II, which has 4 channels and works down to 3.5V. In theory this could be powered by a single LiPo cell, but since I know how much the battery voltage can sag when the servos are operating, I didn’t want to chance it.

In order to give me a place to inject power (since all 4 channels are already occupied) I soldered 2 pins from a 0.1″ straight pin header onto the back of VCC and GND pins on the D4R-II’s right-angle header. These two pins in turn are soldered onto the back of the right-angle header of a Pololu 5V Step-Up Voltage Regulator (U3V12F5). This regulator boosts the voltage from the 1S LiPo into a nice steady 5V supply that the servos and receiver will work optimally with. Here’s a top view showing the battery plugged in to the regulator:

And a side view:

The manual says that the iron balance weights should be secured with double-sided tape and/or painters tape, and the battery should be secured with hot glue. I found that the glue was a poor solution for holding the original battery and would let go during a crash or on takeoff and eject the battery. Once the battery was ejected, I didn’t have a hot glue gun in the field to replace it with, so it basically grounded me.

Instead, after balancing the Libelle, I glued the weights to the foam walls using CA glue and covered the top of the battery bay with a wide piece of clear packaging tape which wraps down the outside of the pod. I conformed the tape to the contour of the balance weights and the foam surface so that the tape doesn’t hinder the closing of the pod lid. This holds the battery in very strongly without relying on the strength of a glue/foam bond, but still allows the battery to be easily removed if desired.

I was trying out a launch preset switch today to give me some reflex and up-elevator on takeoff (instead of trying to control the elevator manually during the throw, which I found difficult to make repeatable).

I got about 5 or 6 nice throws, adjusting the elevator launch preset strength to tune in the climb rate I wanted. There were a few gusts of wind coming by occasionally, and when they sometimes ended up being tail gusts this was a bit annoying for the airspeed drop, but wasn’t a huge issue.

Then for some reason on my last toss, instead of climbing upwards, the Libelle nosed straight down, as if the launch preset’s direction got reversed, and ended up with its nose buried about 10cm into the mud. I have no idea what happened with that. I double checked the launch preset after the crash and I definitely hadn’t accidentally reversed its elevator direction. I wish I had set up the Taranis to log its data to its MicroSD card so I could see what went wrong. I might even see if I can shoehorn an AfroMini 32 onboard in order to log my flight with Cleanflight’s Blackbox feature.

My first guess is that I wasn’t touching the right stick with my thumb, so I might have been unaware that it was being bumped by my clothing or something. I think I’ll program the Taranis to sound a warning tone if the right stick moves off-centre while the launch momentary switch is being held down, or program it to ignore the right stick during launch.

My other guess is that I simply forgot to hold down the launch switch at all, or released it during the rotation. I’ll add an audio notification for the switch being released.

It looks like the wings separated very cleanly, with just one of the locking tabs ending up being stolen by the other side. The two dihedral braces and the wing top plate all shattered, but interestingly both wing bolts survived. I think this suggests that my wing gluing wasn’t strong enough. I believe that the wings should be held together strongly enough that the nylon wing bolts fail before the wing does (making the nylon bolts a sacrificial failure point).

My electronics and the boom/pod assembly are all pristine, making this hopefully an easy fix once I receive new braces from dream-flight.

And indeed, when I got there a 10-20km/hr wind was blowing almost directly up the slope to me. I gave the Libelle a lazy javelin toss and wow! It zoomed straight up into the air. Suddenly, compared to flat-land, I had almost infinite power available. I even managed an aileron roll, although it seemed to hesitate forever at the halfway point. I quickly learned the importance of always making your turn into the wind instead of back towards the slope, as it wipes off a ton of airspeed/altitude if you do it the wrong way. Luckily not enough to make me crash.

Eventually I managed to lose enough altitude that I had to land it, about halfway down the slope. Unfortunately the slope is lined with 2 metre tall toetoe bushes, so visibility was extremely limited and I couldn’t see the landing spot. I had to hunt through gorse bushes in order to find it again. Once I got within 10 metres of it I was able to waggle the ailerons and immediately hear the servos whirring further down the bank. Nice gentle landing in grass:

I gave the control surfaces a quick check and then it was back in the air!

Unfortunately, 15 minutes after that first sunny photo was taken, a dark raincloud started rolling up the valley and it started to rain on me. I was going to brave it out, but my lift started dropping. I couldn’t manage to land it somewhere nice where I could guarantee I wasn’t going to get gouged by gorse again, so I decided to land it on that playing field you can see way the heck at the bottom of the hillside. (maybe 125m vertical).

Wow, depth perception is difficult at that distance! I set flaperons for landing, and I was like “Okayyyy…. touchdown! No? Tttt…….ouchdown! No?? What?”. Finally I made a perfect landing (pretty much by chance). It’s the tiny white speck you can see on the field through the rain:

Unfortunately the field turned out to be composed of 95% moss, it was basically a sodden swamp. My shoes have seen better days. Can’t wait to go back!

I’m happy to say that it’s now back in the air!

I’ve been flying it until the battery runs flat for the past three days, and having a blast. My discus technique is slowly improving, though I’m still doing poorly compared to those I see on YouTube. I might take a video one day and get your guys’ suggestions. I haven’t found a thermal at my flying field yet, I might start hunting further abroad.

I’m now running proper flaperon mixes on my Taranis to give me Thermal and Landing modes according to the deflections specified in the excellent included manual, so my landings can now be much more gentle.

I noticed that since I re-glued the wings, their angle is offset compared to the tailplane, which obviously is not a good thing. One of the plastic mounts snapped in half when the wing did, so there’s not as much holding them in alignment any more. For the moment, I’m just going with the flow and flying counter-clockwise circuits to match the craft’s bias.

I managed to lose the carbon fibre launch peg, so I replaced it with a section of cheap paintbrush handle, which happened to be tapered so I could find a precise fit from halfway down the brush :).

Memories of happier times:

As to how that happened, it was due to repeated stupidity on my part. One day I had a crash where the battery popped out of its hot glue mount. I decided to just stuff it back in and continue flying, since “it’ll only take high shock during crashes and I don’t mind having to put it back in after a crash”.

You probably already see the problem with that: it’ll also experience high forces during takeoff. And sure enough, 5 or so flights later when I launched it, the Libelle went in one direction and the battery went in another. It doesn’t fly so well with no control and no nose weight, so after doing some wicked acrobatics it crashed into the ground nose-first, snapping the skid plate clean in half. But that’s not the end of the story.

I had re-glued the skid plate, glued the battery down nice and good, and got another 20 flights out of it before one aileron servo stripped a gear (not sure why, as I thought that the ailerons were the least molested of my control surfaces, unlike say the rudder). But that was okay because I was able to limit the range of travel of that servo (to about -50% to +50%) to avoid the stripped area. That was fine for a while, but a later crash killed the other aileron servo.

So this morning a box of new servos arrived from Dreamflight, and I replaced both stripped aileron servos. I got about 5 beautiful flights out of it before a slight crash caused the nose to snap off along the line it was already broken on. Now you’d think that this time I would have learned about G-forces from the battery incident, but no. I didn’t want to have to go home to fix it properly, so I just taped that nose cone back on. And exactly what you think would happen happened: The nose came off on takeoff, left me with an uncontrollable fall, and the wings and nose tore apart when it crashed.